Luxor, Egypt Yesterday we boarded our Nile ship, the Royal Lily. There was just enough time to get our luggage organized in the room before lunch and our first guided tour.
We’re used to traveling by taxi so it was a change arriving in one of those mega tour busses that crowd every destination. Makes you feel important.
The ancient Egyptians believed that the living belonged on the east side, where the sun rose to greet each day. The west side was for the dead, where the sun sets, signaling the end of the day, and the end of life. The pyramids and tombs are on the west side; temples on the east.
Our first stop on the east bank was Karnak Temple, which we had already toured several days ago. Somehow the late afternoon sun made this place feel very different. Or maybe it was being part of a group managed with a guide. At any rate, I was glad we had had our own personal introduction to Karnak earlier. Things didn’t feel quite so magical this time around.
We did get to see the Sacred Lake, with water used for purification rituals. And then there was the holy scarab, who grants wishes if you run around it seven times. We took their word for it. The avenue of columns was still thrilling.
Our next stop was Luxor Temple, constructed around 1400 BC. Unlike other temples in Thebes (Luxor’s ancient name), Luxor temple is not dedicated to a cult god or a deified version of the pharaoh in death. Instead, it is dedicated to the rejuvenation of kingship; it may have been where many of the pharaohs of Egypt were crowned.
We were there at dusk and it was packed with people. The statues of Ramses II and other pharoahs were monumental, and inspired the appropriate awe.
Very dramatic as it got darker and worth seeing.
This morning we arose at an ungodly hour and headed for a morning tour on the western bank. These early tours are intended to beat a lot of the crowds and a lot of the heat.
Our first stop was across the Nile in the Valley of the Kings, also a return visit for us, but a briefer one than our last. At 6:30 in the morning there were already large crowds eager to explore the tombs that were open today. The map will give you an idea of the scope of the uncovered tombs, and those receiving visitors.
We missed the tomb of Ramses III last time. So we focused on that this morning. The wall paintings were beautiful and different than the ones we had seen in other tombs. The sarcophagus was not on display, but we could see it tucked into a separate room. A good example of what you expect in your standard Valley of the Kings tomb.
Our next stop was not really our cup of tea, but the usual retail expedition these tours always see to manage to fit in. It was billed as a factory where the ancient stone cutting techniques are still practiced and the end results are for sale. Since I left Don on the bus with a credit card, my camera and I escaped without harm.
The main event for us was the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, a sublime piece of architecture appearing out of huge limestone cliffs. Hatshepsut was a woman who managed to convince Egypt that she could rule as a man while acting as regent for her successor. She succeeded quite well, and managed to put her temple in the Valley of the Kings, not Queens.
It is massive and seems very modern, with its clean lines and dramatic terraces. Not an easy ascent, but worth the work.
Then it was back to the boat to have lunch and crash. These cruise boats have to dock at designated places, and — as in today’s case — they may have to be stacked three deep. We walked across the lobbies of two other boats to get to ours, which was amusing.
P.S. There is off-and-on internet and it’s hard to load photos, so bear with us. I will publish this post and return when possible with the relevant photos.
You are finally on that cruise. hope you will enjoy it.