Alexander’s city by the sea

Alexandria, Egypt After a train ride from Cairo to Alexandria, we have reached the sea, and an Egyptian city with a great Greek pedigree.

We were very thankful for our first class passage, as it was horrifying to think what third class would have been like. It was so helpful to have had train travel in India to prepare us. Our seats — and the entire train — was filthy, even though a little lady came though and passed a rag over our seat arms. The tray fell down from the seat in front of us, but clearly a small animal had died on Don’s, and no amount of her wiping helped.

We are preparing for the trip back to Cairo, armed with Lysol and hand wipes. Forewarned is forearmed!

We are getting somewhat used to the traffic in Egypt, which is beyond chaotic. Pedestrians run between moving cars, lane markers are merely suggestions, and honking is obligatory. We pass so close to other cars that it seems impossible we haven’t even seen a car accident or pedestrian fatality, let alone been in one. Again, India was a great primer.

We arrived after lunchtime with the goal of seeing the Greco-Roman museum here. Our hotel is ornate and of another time, but there is AC and WiFi, two modern essentials. 

The museum is modern and nicely organized….and clean. Its focus on the Ptolemeic era, when Greeks ruled Egypt, and then were conquered by Rome, makes the most of this amazing period in history. (Think Antony and Cleopatra, and then onward.)

Lots of effigies of dear Alexander, and other Greek notables, who tried a gentle takeover of Egyptian religious icons. Our friend the Apis bull even makes an appearance, along with a mummified crocodile.

Of special note was the sculpture of Cleopatra’s two children, (on the left) the statue of Marc Antony, and a spectacular wooden sculpture of Serapis that survived intact somehow.

Late mummies and early Roman bodies with painted faces followed, with lots of decorated sculpted sarcophigi. It all ended up looking purely Roman, as they won — for a while.

We’re rather tired and, like the lady in the couch above, ready for a good night’s sleep, lulled by honking on the street.

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