Visiting the neighbors

Near Grantham, England Today we went to visit the home of the gentry at Belton, sometimes called the ‘perfect’ English country house estate. It was built in the late 17th century by Sir John Brownlow and was home to the same family for nearly 300 years. Each generation made their mark on Belton, commissioning the finest designers and craftsmen of their age.

The house sits in 1,300 acres of incredible formal gardens and parkland, meticulously maintained.

The interior rooms are charming, and more modest in size than those of Burghley House. It seems livable, though still filled with beautiful art and tapestries.

The amazing carving over the front hall mantle was done by the famous Grinling Gibbons, the greatest of decorative carvers in British history.

Ornate touches everywhere speak to the Brownlow’s quest for the best in every category. But no room is too overwhelming or fussy, even the “Queen’s Bedroom,” with the red-striped upholstery. Queen Adelaide, wife of William IV, stayed here.

The family were great readers and well-educated, even teaching their staff to read and write — an exceptional kindness several hundred years ago. Their library is world-renowned.

I would be happy to take the spacious bedroom with the ensuite bathroom. It seemed the most cozy, though no other room was at all objectional. Far from it. The 20th century office was also charming, and not short of books.

All in all, it was a house easy to love, with a nice gift shop and café. There is also a beautiful conservatory, although it has a bad case of thrips. Shudder!

Don’s Food Corner

Our biggest meal of the day was breakfast. Since we don’t eat a number of the foods always featured on a “Full English Breakfast” — namely baked beans, sautéed mushrooms, grilled tomatoes, or blood pudding — we order a la carte.

This morning that meant scrambled eggs on toast for Jo and a plain omelet (with fries) for me. Since the omelet did not come with any toast, I ordered a side of crumpets. The eggs all looked a little pale to me. Where’s the yellow yolks? I actually asked if they were made with whites only. They weren’t. They were also completely flavorless. The fat in those yolks deliver the flavor.

But the crumpets were good. I forgot how butter melts into those little holes to soak all the way through. Crumpets are, of course, the quasi-origin of what we call English muffins, which are unheard-of here.

Later, at Belton house, we went to the beautiful café, where Jo ordered a jacket potato — aka, baked potato — with Cheddar cheese. It was delicious. Brits know how to make a killer jacket potato. They also know how to churn some fantastic Cheddar cheese. That potato was a winner.

I opted for a scone to continue my taste-test comparison throughout Great Britain. (Those scones are often a meal unto themselves. I don’t know exactly how many calories are in each one, and I’m afraid to investigate.) Today’s scone was a special-of-the-month — a carrot scone with raisins. It was spiced as carrot cake. But it was dry and crumbly. I couldn’t properly spread the jam and clotted cream without the whole thing falling apart.

It got extra points for trying to do something different with the carrot approach, but points off for the crumbly execution. I’m going to be kind and give it a B-, mainly because the café atmosphere was so nice. And, so was the weather.

3 thoughts on “Visiting the neighbors”

  1. Lovely home. I ordered some crumpets from Amazon (they have everything). Haven’t had one in years. So excited,

  2. I love a full english breakfast. When I moved to the UK I stayed in a bed and breakfast for a few weeks while I organized my rental accommodation, which included breakfast, so I had a full english every morning. By the third morning the owner was tired of this and asked how long I was going to order it, and I said until check out. He wasn’t impressed. I also love crumpets, so much butter capacity!! Never did like those pale eggs, their chickens aren’t eating the stuff that gives our yolks their nice yellow colour, maybe corn? In Tanzania the eggs were practically entirely white, they probably just eat rocks.

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