Living Large

Stamford, England We left York this morning via what had been the world’s largest train station when it opened in 1877. Now it’s merely a very nice very large station, with elevators, which we appreciated.

We had a nice ride to Peterborough, our closest stop to our reason for being in this part of the world — Burghley House.

It’s rather misleading to call it a house, though it is still occupied as a family home. It is the legacy of William Cecil, the first Lord Burghley (1520 – 1598). He had the fortunate position of close advisor to Queen Elizabeth I, and served as her Lord High Treasurer.

Each of the succeeding descendants (who were and are known as the Earls and Marquesses of Exeter) has had some impact on Burghley, most notably the 5th Earl of Exeter (1648 – 1700), who had frequent shopping sprees in Europe, where he went wild buying paintings, tapestries and knick-knacks. The 9th Earl (1725 – 1793) brought in Capability Brown to make ground changes to the house and grounds. Others just tried to keep up with the passage of time and insure the place was waterproof.

The tour starts in a Tudor section of the house, in the old kitchen. This is one gorgeous room, much prettier than Hampton Court’s kitchen.

There is an Ante Chapel and formal chapel up a stone staircase, an original part of the house.

Rooms decorated in the 17th century contain delights such as the Billiard Room, the 5th Earl’s state dining room, the Brown Drawing Room ad the Black and Yellow Bedroom, my personal favorite.

The small canopy bed in the Brown Drawing Room is a William IV brass traveling bed, circa 1830, that was used by Princess Victoria when she visited Burghley two years before she became Queen.

The lavishness continues through the Marquetry room, The Queen Elizabeth bedroom, the Pagoda Room, the Blue Silk Bedroom (not blue) and its Dressing Room.

Next there are four rooms prepared as a suite for a royal visit. The second of them (with the all-red bed coverings) was refurbished for a three-day visit from Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, with the bed cut down to accommodate her petite-ness. The fourth room was intended as the dining room of the suite.

The last room is called the “Heaven Room,” showing gods and goddesses cavorting in the glades. The centerpiece is a largest solid silver wine cooler in existence, circa 1710, weighing 220 pounds/100 kilograms.

That room leads to the “Hell” staircase, which shows that you go to hell through the mouth of a cat. Who knew? Hard to photograph.

The next room is wonderful. It is the Great Hall, with a Tudor double hammer beam roof, á la Hampton Court. The bookcases are 19th century, but the library itself dates from the 16th century.

If you are familiar with “Chariots of Fire,” you will appreciate the Olympic Corridor. (Every home should have one.) Herein is displayed the Olympic gold and silver medals won by the 6th Marquess, athletic David Cecil (1905-1981).

What a house, and what a history. Truly worth the price of admission.

Don’s Food Corner

We had lunch in the Orangery of the house. Beautiful room, nicely appointed.

The food? Not so great. Jo had soup of some type of pumpkin/parsnip concoction. Then she went on to a sandwich of a supposed chicken something-or-other with too much “Caesar dressing” (but was really Ranch) slapped in-between two pieces of soggy focaccia. I tried the hamburger, which was actually decent, although I couldn’t find any ketchup. The fries were good.

We had no scone today. Sorry. (Don’t be sad.)