Vienna, Austria We made one last outing today, to the hidden palace built for Empress Elizabeth, known by all as “Sissi.” No matter how they cast her life story, Sissi seems to be mostly noted for her vanity, and her ability to grow her hair.
This palace, tucked into the hunting park of the Emperor, known as the Villa Hermes, was used by the royal couple from its completion in 1887 to her assassination in 1898.
It was certainly secluded. Our Uber driver left us off in the middle of the woods for some reason, and we trudged for at least a good mile and a half till we got even close to it. (That walk was very reminiscent of a certain day in Japan, just with no tree roots in the path and no blazing heat.)
It is in a beautiful setting. After WWI, the estate was left to decay. What hadn’t been looted already was then taken away by the occupying Russian forces after WWII. After a complete restoration, the palace was reopened in 1974, and is considered a “hidden jewel.” That is certainly true if you are a confused tourist wandering the woods, before you happen on a few signs and the palace suddenly reveals itself to you.
There is very little left of the original furnishings, except that Sissi’s bedroom contains various historic artifacts, including a bed from the era of Maria Theresa.
The marble statue in the lobby was especially meaningful to Sissi as it represented her close ties with her daughter with several mythological references, all flattering to Sissi.
So that’s all for our time in Vienna this year. We feel like old hands and enjoy every corner of this beautiful city. Let’s see if we can return next year.
Don’s Food Corner
We returned this evening to our favorite restaurant in Vienna — Plachuttas Gasthaus zur oper. As the saying goes, you’ve tried the rest, now try the best. And, indeed, for us it hits all the marks. Beautiful surroundings without being too fancy. Excellent service, overseen by a take-no-prisoners head waiter. And the best food of the traditional Austrian variety.
Now Jo has finally decided to rate the wiener schnitzel here the best. Consistently the best. So, it’s A+, and so is the accompanying cucumber dill salad.
We started with another favorite there. Namely, the goose liver brulée, which Jo somehow forgot to photograph. Divine.
I went rogue and had roast pork with a mushroom sauce. Two huge slices of the roast pork. It came with thick slices of a dumpling loaf. Think of it as refined German cooking.
We looked at the dessert menu, but we were just too full to go further.
Then, we took our favorite little electric bus that weaves through the narrow streets of Vienna on the way back to the Airbnb where we’re staying. It is an area we’ve stayed in a few times before. The ride through those streets, so familiar to us now, was a little sad, knowing that we are returning to some trying times in America.