Leaping from the ashes

Hiroshima, Japan The Peace Memorial Museum here leaves nothing to the imagination regarding the impact and effects of the bomb, whose hypocenter was very nearby.

Hiroshima was a strategic military target of the Allies, but it was also a large and lively city. Photographs show pre- and post-bomb images of the city which make the devastation very real.

And then there are the victims. The museum sits next to a beautiful wide river. But we learn that that day it was packed with the dead and almost-dead, craving water. Others roamed the streets, also begging for water, as horrendous burns took their toll. The personal stories and the remaining personal effects are incredibly sad. The fires, the black rain, the horrors of vanished family members — they all become very real here, more than I want to share.

The suffering didn’t end that week or even that year. The victims carried the emotional suffering and the physical damage all their lives, even if they managed to outlive the immediate disaster.

How fitting that, just two days ago, Nihon Hidankyo was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for 2024. Their lesson needs to be heard again and again.

We’ll not forget this place, which somehow pulled itself up from catastrophe to build an completely new and vibrant city. What strength and courage it must have taken.

Later in the day, Don was out searching for dinner, and finally found the hypocenter. There’s just a small plaque kind of tucked next to an apartment building, and it’s not on the tourist path – for some reason.

But we moved on to a reconstruction of an old monument, Hiroshima Castle. It was recreated in 1958, based on the original, built in 1589. It must have been quite imposing and effective as a city defense.

Today was some kind of special holiday that involved children, and parents were all dressed up, with their small children in traditional attire. Not all of them were willing participants, but we found them a welcome relief and a symbol for the future.

Another recreated beloved treasure of the city is Shukkei-en, a garden laid out in 1620. Its name means “shrunken view garden” as it appears to offer grand vistas in miniature. If it weren’t for the looming skyscrapers, you would think you were in an ancient magical fantasy — one with ravenous carp, which we helped to feed.

Don’s Food Corner

Today I had the best meal so far in Japan, and one of the best eating experiences ever.

The local specialty that I searched out is called okonomiyaki. Basically, it’s a concoction that includes whatever you want piled on top of a thin crepe-like pancake. But the usual ingredients include noodles (soba or udon), shredded cabbage and grated yam. From then on, it’s anything goes, like egg, pork, oysters, garlic flakes, green onions, bean sprouts. It’s all fried on a griddle and when flipped over, it has a wonderful fried look.

The dish was first invented in Osaka, but here in Hiroshima it has an added level of complexity because, instead of piling everything on top, the Hiroshima style layers the ingredients in a specific order.

I sat at the counter facing the grill and was able to watch how it was done. (Hmm, can I replicate this at home?) There are little shops specializing in this comforting comfort food all over Hiroshima. We’ll check out the Osaka difference when we get there later this week. Stay tuned.